
The History of General Tso's
Chicken
When
people ask me what type of food I miss most from the U.S., I have two answers
depending on what type of mood I'm in. Sometimes, if I'm craving spicy, I'll say Mexican food, which is really the only foreign cuisine that has
not been duplicated properly in Shanghai. The second answer is Chinese
food, or what I know to be "Chinese food." And I say this because as an
American living in China, I quickly learned that what I thought was Chinese food
isn't that at all. It's American Chinese food, and while not authentic, I
find myself craving its simplicity, its greasiness and its unique flavor.
I thought when I got to China, I'd be eating egg rolls and and beef and broccoli
for dinner most nights. I've been here a long time now and I am yet to
find either on a real Chinese menu. Another such American Chinese staple
dish is General Tso's Chicken, which despite being the most popular Hunanese
dish on America's east coast, the half-spicy half-sweet dish cannot be found in
Hunan province. So how exactly did General Tso's Chicken take off in the
States? And an even better question: who the hell is General Tso?
Well, the dish was invented by a Hunanese chef who fled to Taiwan after the
Chinese civil war and in 1973, moved to New York City where he opened the
Chinese restaurant where the dish was first served. At this time, Hunanese
food was unknown in the Big Apple. Now, it's everywhere. He named
the dish after a 19th-century Hunan general name Tso Tsung-t'ang, who as legend
has it, enjoyed eating a similar recipe. However, according to a New York
Times Magazine article Sunday, the general never ate the chicken named for him.
The story of General Tso's Chicken is quite complex, one that cannot be told
without mentioning Mao Zedong or Henry Kissinger. Yeah that's right, Henry
Kissinger. So the next time you go to Hunan Garden/Balcony/Palace and tell your waiter
"just gimme what the General ordered (that's what I like to do)," you are not
only making a solid lunch order. You are partaking in one of the richest
American-Chinese culinary traditions.
•NYT:
The Way We Eat - Hunan Resources
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